Wednesday, August 8, 2018

89. 16 FISH NAMES IN KAPAMPANGAN

Fishing is the lifeblood of many Kapampangans especially those living in towns lining the Gran Rio de la Pampanga. As such, the Kapampangan is acquainted with all kinds of fishes that have become so much a part of his life,  his industry and his culture.
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BACOCO (Pacific Sea Bream)
There are quite a few species of fish that are called by the name bacoco here in the Philippines of which the Pacific Sea Bream is one.  This particular species is primarily found in estuaries and even in rivers in brackish water.  They are not a particularly large fish however they are a heavy set fish and make a good food fish.

BALULUNGI (Needlebeak)
A folklorist describes balulungi as “a small fish resembling a swordfish”. It could have been coined by combining “balungus” (mouth/beak) with tungi (sharp stick). According to Kapampangan culinary chef Gene Gonzales, these fish were considered “plebeian fare because of their reputation as surface skimmers that feed on floating waste”. A freshwater variety, the balulungi could be the Rynchorhamphus georgii, a long billed, half beak fish., known as baritos, buging and bugiw in other Philippine languages.

BIA (Goby)
Bia are from the very common fish family Gobiidae (goby fish) , one of the largest in the world.  Most of them are relatively small, typically less than 10 cm (3.9 in) in length. The world’s smallest goby fish, Pandaka Pygmaea, is found in the Philippines. This dwarf goby called “bia” or “tabios” has a size that range only from .9 to 1.5 cm. Bia are commercial edible fishes, found in local Kapampangan fare, cooked by the handful in batter and fried.

BIDBID (Ladyfish)
These long and slender fish from the Elopidae family are characterized by a small, pointed head, large deeply forked tail, as well as big eyes and mouth, lined with sharp, tiny teeth. Bidid also have small, thin scales  The scales are small and thin. The coastal-dwelling bidbid are foun d throughout the tropical regions where they are known as ladyfish, skip jacks and tenpounders.

BUAN-BUAN (Wolf herring)
This predator fish is quite rare and elusive. It has silvery sides, a long sardine shaped body and large fangs. The riverine barangay of Mabuanbuan in Sasmuan got its name from this fish species, which Bergaño describes as “pescado espinoso”--a spiny fish, with white scales, but delicious. 

BUNDAQUI (Mudfish)
Bundaqui is another old term for “bulig” or mudfish, a big fish that is also known in many Southeast Asian countries. The stages of the bulig’s growth are chronicled by Bergaño—the yellow-striped fingerlings are called “bundalag”,  the grow to their intermediate size called “bundaqui”. The fully grown fish is called “dalag”. French historian Jean Mallat write about this fish during the rainy season: “ It is more or less during this period that they catch in this lake (Candaba Swamp) a great quantity of dalacs, a fish which the Indios are extremely fond of, and which is in fact, delicious. The dalac resembles a very large and very short short eel, and its way of swimming makes it prefer muddy places”.
DULUNGAN (Mullet)
Dulungan or balanak (mullet, banak in Tagalog) is one of the more expensive fishes in the Philippines, common in the Cagayan River, but also in Pampang rivers and estuaries. They are a challenge to catch, and as such, are served during special occasions—as quenelles (creamed fish,  combined with breadcrumbs and egg, then cooked) or served with mayonnaise.

LICAUC (Silver Perch)
This is a small bangus-like fish that teems in ponds after flood or rain, preferred for their small roes (puga). Its Tagalog name is ayungin or silver perch. In the dictionary complied by Fray Bergaño, it is properly termed as lucauc, or pececillos.

LIWALU (Climbing Perch)
This common fish--Liwalu--also gave its name to such places as Maliwalu (in Bacolor and Tarlac City) and Caluluan (Ca-liwalu-wan, in Concepcion). Incidentally, the Historical Data Papers of Concepcion call it archer fish, but American inchthyologist Albert William Herre, who called it “lawalo” classified it as a Climbing Perch, Ananas testudineus (Bloch). This fish is known for prolonged living without water hence the name “liwalu”, meaning “luwal” or outside (the waters).

PACUT (Young river crab)
Pacut is a small-crab like crustacean, which when fully grown, is called talangka, Philippines shore crabs, still smaller than alimasag and ema.

PALAS-SAN (Swordfish)
Bergaño collected a unique Kapampangan term for a swordfish -- “palas-san”. Its Tagalog counterpart, now also rarely used is “tag-gan”. Of course, there is a flat, narrow-bodied fish that we also call “ispada” (beltfish), but this is obviously different from the bigger, predatory swordfish that take its name for its long, flat bill.

PALIMANOC (Ray Fish)
Fray Bergaño was very sparse with his description of “palimanoc”—he just noted that it is “a certain kind of fish, a ray fish”). Rays are a distinctive, cartilaginous marine fishes, noted for their flat, disc-like bodies, broad, wing-like pectoral fins that are fused to the head, and gill slits that are placed on their ventral surfaces. Their tails have venomous spines that can cause injuries.  Their nearest relatives are the sharks.

SAPSAP (Toothpony Fish)
The fish (Gazza mintua, Bloch), also called sapsap in Tagalog, is commonly available in Philippine markets.  It is often used as main ingredient in cooking Filipino favorite fish stews like paksi and pangat.

TABANGOGO (Manila Sea Catfish)
Tabangongo or kanduli (Arius manillensis) is a species of commercial marine catfish endemic to the island of Luzon. First described by the French zoologist Achille Valenciennes in 1840,  the fish inhabits marine, brackish, and freshwater habitats. Compared to the black-skinned “itu”,  the tabangongo has shiny silvery gray skin with a big head, and is delicious as adobo or as sinigang.

TAGAN-BIRHEN (Sole)
The fish with a religious name –tagan birhen (Virgin’s Leftover, solea humilis) is a member of the sole family of fishes (Soleidae). It is sometimes called "tagan ginu" (the Lord's leftover). The flat fish, to imaginative Kapampangans, has the silhouette of the Virgin, with the tail forming the crowned head. It is prized in many restaurants, although some soles are poisonous.

TALANG-TALANG (Goldfish)
There is a talang fish (Queenfish) that is endemic in the Philippines, but this short-headed, skinny, silvery fish does not conform to the description of Bergaño’S Kapampangan talang-talang, which he simply calls a “goldfish”. Its name may have come from “talang”, the round mabolo fruit (velvet apple) which can come in red or golden yellow color. The color, plus the plump shape certainly mimc that of the common aquarium goldfish, which is native to east Asia.

INFO SOURCES:
Dizon, Lino L. , “Fish in the Life of Kapampangan”. Singsing Magazine, Vol. 3, No. 2 issue.
F. Diego Bergano Dictionary, tramslated by Fr. Venancio Samson, CKS, Holy Angel University
Wikimedia

PICTURE SOURCES:
BACOCO (Pacific Sea Bream): https://pam.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bakoko
SAPSAP (Toothpony Fish): https://www.uniprot.org/taxonomy/218819
TAGAN BIRHEN (Sole Fish): https://species.wikimedia.org/wiki/Solea
TABANGOGO (Manila Sea Catfish): http://fishing.ph/fishes/kanduli/

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