75. 11 POINTS OF INTEREST IN AND AROUND PINATUBO IN 1925

In January 17, 1925, Capt. H.A. Myers of the 26^th Cavalry, by order of Col. Cavanaugh, prepared and circulated a guide to provide persons interested in riding, with information concerning the best trails an roads to take when riding out of the Post proper. The Stotsenburg Reservation and nearby country, in general, offers much that is worth exploring, for there is a lot of beautiful scenery and many interesting landmarks to be found there. A list of these trails and scenic spots, in and around Pinatubo, as well as  Bamban, are contained in the memo. Some of the names and locations of these trails have been lost to memory.

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1. FERN CANYON

This canyon probably offers the finest scenery of its kind around Camp Stotsenburg and should be visited at least once by every person of the garrison. Here, one can see beautiful array of typical shrubbery, particularly ferns, the abundance and variety of which gives the canyon its name.

Wild fowl abound, especially the smaller birds many of which are bedecked with the brightest of plumage. After entering the canyon proper, it narrows down into a gorge only a few feet wide with walls of slid rock on either side varying from 75 to more than 150 feet in height. Huge trees jut out from the walls many feet overhead. Only at midday does the sun ever reach the depths of the canyon and the air is always cool and laden with the fragrance of wild flowers.

2. THREE-CRATER TRAIL

This trail, which forms part of the first part of the 24^th Field Artillery China Sea Trail, is very much worthwhile. The trail follows along a canyon which opens out frequently into circular clearings similar to and probably are, very old craters. There is a heavy growth of plant life on all sides and birds and animal life abound. Interesting and unusual geological formations are frequently encountered. The stream which flows through this canyon furnishes a portion of Stotsenburg’s water supply and the water line and settling basin are passed shortly after entering the canyon. Here and there are short trails leading up into the surrounding hills. Persons talking this ride should try and follow the trail as far as the Bamban River which is encountered at the end of the canyon about 4 miles from the Post. Due to its being used throughout the year and forming part of the 24^th Field Artillery China Sea Trail, this trail is generally in good shape. Take your camera.

3. LOST CANYON

Lying just south of the the larger and more imposing canyon of the Three Crater Trail, Lost Canyon is very frequently overlooked by equestrians but this oversight is the distinct loss of the latter because Lost Canyon, with its misleading off-shoots and dense growth offers a haven for the seeker of the unusual and uncertain. Entering the canyon, one passes through the gardens of several enlisted men, after which the narrow trail follows along a small stream. The canyon is narrow and overgrown with dense tropical shrubbery, vines and trees. Here, one can find everything in its natural state, there being few evidences of changes made by man. Vari-colored birds flit among the trees and shrubbery, unconscious if intruders, Air plants such as epiphytic orchids grace the front porches of most quarters in the Post and many varieties can be seen as they grow in their natural state. Lost Canyon extends for a considerable distance but for the mounted visitor, only about 1 mile. There are numerous off-shoots from the main trail easily mistaken for the latter, but all finally coming to an end in some inaccessible spot. No doubt, some early pioneer, after struggling to find his way through the canyon, found inspiration for giving it its name. This is a fine place to cool off on hot, tropical days.

4. SOUTH BOUNDARY TRAIL

Following along the Southern Boundary of the reservation from Camp Stotsenburg to Dau, this trail—which in reality is a second class road—offers an excellent route for person desiring to take a ride of several miles over level country. The dirt road is soft and makes a good footing for horses, particularly if gaits faster than a walk are desired. The trail, after being taken to the outskirts of Tacondo, leads almost directly east to Dau. From this point, persons can either return over the same route or take the main Stotsenburg-Dau road. The country along the entire route is level and if desired, one can ride cross-country or; make us of the numerous small trails which run in every direction.

5. SPANISH CUT-SECOND AND THIRD RIVER TRAILS

This is one of the most interesting rides that can be taken around Stotsenburg. Leaving the Post proper, the route leads past the Forage Farm, across Pistil Gulch to the Bamban River. In making the descent to the river, the trail leads down to a long steep bank, somewhat thrilling to ride down, but not at all dangerous if taken slowly. Crossing the river—which is never deep nor dangerous except in the rainy season—the trail leads into a deep cut covered overhead with trees and shrubbery. Following up the cut which is quite steep but accessible, the trail emerges at the top and leads on generally North between, over and around hills, across small streams and through thickets. The scenery here is beautiful. Second River is reached about 1 mile North of the Bamban, and the Third River is a large pool of cool, clear, sparkling water. This is an excellent place for swimming and in years gone by, it was quite the thing to arrange swimming parties here, tents being taken out  of pack mules for dressing rooms. There are any number of excellent sites along the route for staging picnics.

6. DRY RIVER BED TRAIL

This trail offers an excellent route for beginners as it runs through the sandy river bed, has an easy footing for horses and is about the best place one can find to fall off. This trail is also an excellent place to work frisky, nervous horses as the deep sand tends to quiet them down. Except during rainy weather, this stream bed can be followed to a point south east of Dolores and in very dry weather, even further. Trees line the stream bed forming natural barriers on either side. Beginners who are reluctant to try a trot or gallop should do their first work at increased gaits in this sandy stretch. In going over the trail, one can either ride down as far as a point south of Dolores and then return over the same ground or take the Banyan Trail leading through the Banana Grove and back to the Post via Air Service, Murrayville, etc.

7.BANYAN TRAIL

This is an excellent route to take for a short ride. One can leave the Post, cover this trail to where it joins the Dolores Road and return in about three quarters of an hour. The trail is taken near the Air Service then runs through the Banana Grove where the famous Banyan Tree is passed. There is a very dense growth in the Banana Grove and as the sun seldom filters through the thick foliage, it is always cool here. Leaving the Banana Grove, one can either return via the Dry River Bed or take the Dolores Road back to the Post.

8. THE ARTILLERY TRAIL TO THE CHINA SEA

The Artillery Trail to the China Sea constructed by the 24^th Artillery is open from about the first of November to the first of July for individually-mounted parties and pack animals. A 2 ½ hour ride, without one hill, brings one to Camp 3 located on the Bamban River. An excellent place for a picnic or to camp (plenty of tent poles, benches and firewood always on hand). A good swimming hole about 200 yards from the camp. During this ride, you will pass through th  4 craters and are struck by the scenic beauty and marvelous rock formation, reminders of the Pre-Glacial  Age.

About a half hour’s ride from the fourth crater, the typical forest begins and continues to the base of Mount Pinatubo. The beauty and wonders of this forest cannot be appreciated unless seen. There is practically no animal life but abundant flora; ferns, air plants, orchids, giant fern trees and other tress 250 feet tall and 25 to 30 feet in diameter. Other beautiful flora peculiar to this forest only, and never named.

From Camp 3 to Camp 4 is about a 1 hour ride following the Bamban River over a practically level trail. Camp 4 is a good halfway camp if going to Pinatubo. Animals should be rested and packs removed before going up out of Bamban as at this point, the only difficult climb begins. The trail follows a gorge out of the Canyon of the Bamban and reaches the divide between the Bamban and Dry Pasig valleys. After following the divide for about four miles, you make a slight descent coming out of the forestand by a slight climb into Zambales Pass and Camp 6. The altitude of Camp 6 is about 4,000 feet The cool climate and invigorating atmosphere rivals Baguio. It is an excellent place to camp with plenty of good spring water available.

The view from Zambales Pass is incomparable with anything in the Philippine Islands. Looking back to the east, the plains of Pampanga are visible for scores of miles and to the West, the mountains of the coast and over them,the China Sea and the Capones islands. From Camp 6, you should ride about a mile further to the north and view Pnatubo Crater. It is beyond description with its walls rising from 500 to 2,000 feet. Parties should not attempt to go beyond this pint unless prepared to stay out sometime. Also, parties going beynd Camp 3 should consist of at least 5 persons, and should be armed.

9. TRAIL TO DRY PASIG

This trail requires about 4 hours to cover but is very worthwhile, and should be taken at least once by everyone. It runs from the Post proper to Sapang Bato Ridge, and then southwest through numerous cultivated areas, a hacienda, a large coconut grove, the latter the only one near the Stotsenburg reservation. Several pretty canyons are crossed and the country in general, offers much in scenic beauty. The trail terminates at what is known as Dry Pasig, a stream bed usually having little, if any, water but deriving its name from the fact that the head waters of the Pasig River originate in this area. The trail, of course, continues on further from this point, but persons coming from Camp Stotsenburg will hardly care to ride beyond.

10. GRIFFITH’S PEAK

The ride to the summit of Griffiths Peak is one of the nicest that can be taken in or around Stotsenburg. The climb up the Peak is steep but not difficult, and once at the top, one can get a very excellent vew of the country for miles around. On clear days, the Central Luzon Valley stretches out to the east and is plainly visible as far as the mountain ranges that run North and South along the Pacific coast of Luzon. Angeles, San Fernando, San Pedro Magalang, and in fact, all of the towns and barrios to the east and South can be seen on clear days. If one cares to take the ride, there is a rail running down the northwestern slope of Griffiths Peak that leads to a point on the Bamban River just above the Intake Station, the latter being where Stotsenburg secures its water supply. The trail from the high South bank of Bamban, down to the stream bed where the Station is located is too steep to be attempted by a horse. However, persons can go down dismounted with no difficulty and should do so as the spot where the Station is located is picturesque. At one point near is a long tunnel where the water line runs under a high hill. This tunnel is large enough for a person to walk through and offers an interesting diversion for persons desiring to explore . This trip should best be taken after the grass has been pruned off and only in dry weather.

11. TOP ‘O THE WORLD

This hill is reached by so many trails that any attempt to describe them all is difficult and unnecessary. It is possible to approach the hill from most any direction and encounter a trail or several of them. However, there are a few general routes over and around the hill which offer the best footing and are therefore the most advisable ones to follow. First, there is a trail which runs West along the crest of a ridge that begins back of the T line. This trail goes over the Reservoir Hill and on along the ridge, turns North and then  goes to a point on the South side of Top ‘O the World. From here, one can go up to the uppermost point on the Top ‘O the World or else proceed on West along the south side of the hill, and then northwest along the ridge that runs along the Top ‘O the World to Griffiths Peak. From the highest point of Top ‘O the World, there is a trail that running dwn the crest of the ridge in a northeasterly direction. This is called the “Knife’s Edge” . The trail is very narrow with steep slopes on either side. None but the very experienced rider who has confidence in his horse should ride over this portion of the trail. The view from Top ‘O the World is excellent. Persons desiring to cover a formidable but safe hill trail should take one of the several trails leading up and around Top ‘O the World, as they are all in good condition, well-travelled and offer no onstacle which the average rider on the average horse should not be able to negotiate.

CREDITS, PINATUBO TRAILS:
NOTE: While most of these photos are Stotsenburg photos, some are representational.

Fern Canyon: https://www.kew.org/mng/gallery/554.html

Pinatubo Trail 1:  https://adrenalineromance.com/2014/06/12/mt-pinatubo-a-monster-of-destruction-creation-and-magnificence/

Banyan Forest picture (representation only): https://www.flickr.com/photos/nitinmnair/3968634739, posted by Alel, 30 Sep. 2009

Crater Lake: http://pinatubotours.blogspot.com/

Top ‘O The World (representation only): https://altphotos.com/photo/man-standing-on-top-of-a-mountain-and-enjoying-view-1352/

69. 10 PLACES IN CLARK AND THE NAMES BEHIND THEM

When one goes to Clark today, he passes avenues like C.M. Recto, G. Puyat, M.A. Roxas, K. Laxamana---all names of Filipino statesmen, heroes and personalities. But in the not-so-distant past, when Clark was still a piece of America in Pampanga, its  major thoroughfares and buildings bore ‘stateside’ names like Dyess, O’Leary, Kelly, Levin, Mitchell, Wagner among others. Not many Kapampangans know the faces behind these names today, so here are a few of them.

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CAMP STOTSENBURG, named after Col. John Miller Stotsenburg

The future Clark Air Base started as an unnamed camp established six miles northwest of Angeles town by soldiers of the 5^th U.S. Cavalry regiment on Dec. 26, 1902.  It was the tradition to name camps after American soldiers killed in the Philippine-American War, and that was how Col. John M. Stotsenburg, killed in action on April 23, 1899 near Quinga, Bulacan, came to be immortalized when the cavalry post was named after him. A graduate of West Point (1881) and  the Infantry and cavalry School at Fort Leavenworth, Kansas (1897), Col. Stotsenburg was assigned to the Philippines to lead the 1^st Nebraska Regiment as their battalion commander. In an unplanned engagement on April 23, Col. Stotsenburg ordered an immediate advance to fight the Filipinos. Moments later, he was shot in the chest and killed; he was only 40 years old.

CLARK FIELD, named after Maj. Harold Melville Clark

The first airplane landing field were just long dirt landings scraped from the ground in 1919. Eventually, a more expansive airfield was built, asphalted and expanded before World War II. The airfield would be named after Maj. Harold M. Clark, a Philippine-educated American (Manila High School, 1910, future president Manuel A. Roxas was a classmate), who received his pilot’s wings in March 1917. One of the first aviators in Hawaii, Clark was flying his seaplane in the Panama Canal Zone when it crashed on May 2, 1919. The young pilot was killed but his name would live on, overshadowing the original camp name, and by the 1960s, the camp complex  together with its airfields, would be known Clark Field or Clark Air Base.

BOBBITT THEATER, named after Col. Aubrey Malcolm Bobbitt

The popular movie house of Clark that was favorite of  American servicemen, their families, as well as Wagner High teens, screened the latest blockbuster films from the 60s thru the 90s--from “The Thing” “Saturday Night Fever” ,”Jaws”, to “American Werewolf in London”. Bobbitt stood next to the BX, across from what used to be the main gas station, in the same parking lot of what was once the American Express Bank. It was named after Col. Aubrey M. Bobbitt (b. Jan. 25, 1940/d. Aug. 29, 1971), base commander and the commander of the 6200^th Air Base Wing, in September 1972. Col. Bobbitt had an illustrious 29-year career in the U.S. military, serving in Newfoundland, Europe and the Philippines. He died at the USAF Hospital of heart attack. Bobbitt Theater, post-Pinatubo, it became a hotel, a cocktail lounge (“Forbidden City”), and is  now part of the Widus Hotel and Casino complex.

BONG HIGHWAY, named after Maj. Richard Bong  (now Manuel L. Quezon Avenue)

Bong Highway has such a local ring to it, sounding much like a common Pinoy nickname. But this major Clark road which leads to the Mimosa main gate (now a Filinvest  property),was named after a World War II Medal of Honor recipient, Major Richard Ira "Dick" Bong (b.Sep. 24, 1920/d. Aug. 6, 1945). One of t host decorated fighter pilots, Major Bong is known for downing 40 Japanese aircrafts in his lifetime. Tragically, he died in California while testing a jet aircraft before the war ended.

DYESS AVENUE, named after Ofcr. William Edwin Dyess (now, C.M. Recto Highway)

William Edwin "Ed" Dyess (August 9, 1916 – December 22, 1943) was an officer of the United States Army Air Corps during World War II. He was in command of the 21^st Pursuit Squadron tasked to defend Clark. He was captured after the Allied loss at the Battle of Bataan and endured the subsequent Bataan Death March. After a year in captivity, he escaped and spent three months on the run before being evacuated from the Philippines by a U.S. submarine. Once back in the U.S., he recounted the story of his capture and imprisonment, providing the first widely published eye-witness account of the brutality of the Death March. He returned to duty in the Army Air Forces but was killed in a training accident months later.

KELLY THEATER, named after Capt. Colin Purdue Kelly Jr.
One of the historic buildings in Clark Air Base was the Kelly Theater, constructed in 1953, the only cinema house in Clark and the venue of many stage plays and cultural shows. There was an earlier Kelly Theater built earlier—in 1947—that was converted from an old gymnasium. Both theatres were names after B-17 pilot Capt. Colin P. Kelly Jr. (b.Jul. 11, 1915/d. Dec. 10, 1941)  who died in action against the Japanese forces in 1941. Kelly’s damaged plane, while returning from a bombing run, blew up near Clark Field after being engaged by enemy forces. Capt. Kelly was declared America’s first hero of WWII by US President Franklin D. Roosevelt.  The memorial statue of the fallen captain was inaugurated on the theater grounds on 10 Dec. 2007—the 66th year of his passing. Kelly Theater, located at the cor. Ninoy Aquino Ave. and Foxhound St., survived Mt. Pinatubo, but eventually everything from the seats to the roof and front walls were stolen.

MEYER LEVIN GYMNASIUM, named after Master Sgt. Meyer Levin

The gymnasium facility on Dau Avenue, east of the Parade Ground was named after Meyer Levin in 1955, a master sergeant of the U.S. Army Air Corps. Raised in Brooklyn, New York, Levin (b.Jun 5, 1916/d.Jan. 7, 1943)—who had wanted to become an aviator—became a bombardier and flew with Capt. Colin Kelly after the Japanese attack of Clark Field. During his last mission on January 7, 1943, Levin volunteered to bomb the Japanese convoy ships that was approaching Australia. The weather worsened, and as the plane used up its fuel, the crew bailed out as the planed ditched the water. Levin remained in the plane to release the rafts that saved his crew. He died in the crash and is listed as one of those missing at Manila National Cemetery. Levin was awarded the  Distinguished Flying Cross (for successfully bombing the Japanese warship “Haruna”) and a Purple Heart for his heroic war feats.

MITCHELL HIGHWAY, named after Brig. Gen. William Lendrum Mitchell,  (now J. Abad Santos Avenue)

One of the most travelled roads in Clark—the Mitchell Highway-- stretches all the way from the Mars Station, then passes close to the Parade Grounds, and leads all the way to the Friendship Gate. It was named Philippine-American war veteran, Gen. William “Billy” Mitchell (b.Dec. 29, 1879/d.Feb. 19, 1936), regarded as the father of the United Sates Air Force. Gen. Mitchell also saw action during World War I in France, and even commanded the American air combat units in that country post-war. In 1924, he returned to Pampanga to revisit  Camp Stotsenburg where he even gave flying lessons to Gen. Emilio Aguinaldo, whom he had helped capture. The North American B-25 Mitchell—an American military aircraft design—was also named in his honor.

WAGNER HIGH SCHOOL, named after 1^st Lt. Boyd David Wagner

The beginnings of Wagner High School and Middle School could be traced back in 1957-58 when the Grades 7-12 of Wurtsmith High transferred to individual wooden buildings at the former Chapel Center. That site that will eventually be renamed Wagner High School. The school was named after 1st Lt. Boyd David Wagner, of the U.S. Army Air Corps, who commanded the 17^th Pursuit Squadron that was ordered to protect Clark. On Dec. 14, 1941 shot down four Japanese airplanes, and 2 days later, downed another enemy aircraft at Vigan. Thus, he became the first American World War II Ace, and for which he earned him a Distinguished Service Cross. Wagner was nearly blinded in the Lingayen Gulf battle, but survived and evacuated to Australia where he recovered.Later, he was sent back to the U.S. to train new fighter pilots. On  Nov. 29, 1942, Col. Wagner disappeared while on a flight from Florida to Alabama. His plane wreckage was found six weeks later, some 4 miles north of Freeport, Florida. His remains are buried at Grandview Cemetery, Johnstown, Pennsylvania.

WURTSMITH MEMORIAL SCHOOL, named after Maj. Gen. Paul Bernard Wurstmith

 The Clark Dependents’ School opened in 1947 to accommodate school-age children. In 1950, it was moved to another used office building that would be renamed in 1954 as Wurtsmith Memorial  High School. It was name in memory of Maj. Gen. Paul Bernard Wurtsmith (b. Aug. 9,1906/Sept. 13, 1946), who became a flying cadet in 1927. Over the next 13 years, he served in command positions and his fighters’ feats include downing 78 enemy aircraft in the defense of Darwin in Australia, against the Japanese. In 1945, he commanded the 13^th Air Force in the Southern Philippines campaign. Wurtsmith was killed when his plane crashed in the mountain area near Asheville, North Carolina. The Clark school that bears his name would have a new air-conditioned building on the former site of the Stotsenburg base picnic grounds in 1961. Construction of an expanded campus complex began in 1989, and the newly-renovated Wurtsmith High opened for schoolyear 1990-1991. The Pinatubo eruption (which occurred just a week before the end of the school year) forced the transfer of the graduation rites to Subic. The school was later demolished and replaced with Fontana Casino.

BONUS!

A hill in Clark bears a peculiar name, because it was not named after a person, or even after a flower, as its name suggests.

LILY HILL

Lilly Hill first appeared on an 1898 map, and is thought to have been derived from the Kapampangan  word “lili”, which means “lost”. The Americanized name was apt because it was easy to get lost on that hill which stood separately from other hills in the area. Used as an observation point by Americans from 1903--42, it was also used by the Japanese for the same purpose. It would become the stronghold of the Kembu Group which defended Clark from late 1944-45. Post-war, a USAF aircraft warning and control unit was put up in the summit until 1962. A Buddhits shrine was built on the hilltop by the Japanese in 1998 on  the 54th commemoration of the Kamikaze. It features a large 5-ton granite statue of Kannon, the "Goddess of Peace ".

SOURCES:

Camp Stotsenburg:

Pix of Camp Stotsenburg: Alex Castro Collection

Pix of Col. John Stotsenburg:

Clark Air Base:

Pix,:Harold Clark: An Annotated Pictorial History of Clark Air Base,  by David Rosmer

Bobbitt Theater:

Pix of Bobbitt Theater: www.margaritastation.com

Pix of Aubrey Bobbitt: https://stalagluft3.wordpress.com/2015/07/16/stalag-luft-iii-newsletter-august-2015-reunion-agenda/

Bong Avenue:

Pix: Welcome to Clark Air Base, Guardian of Philippine Defense booklet

Pix of Richard Bong: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Bong

Dyess Highway:

Pix: Welcome to Clark Air Base, Guardian of Philippine Defense booklet

Pix of  William Dyess: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_E._Dyess

Kelly Theater:

Pix: An Annotated Pictorial History of Clark Air Base,  by David Rosmer

Pix of Colin P. Kelly: Aces of WW2, http://acesofww2.com/bombers/41/

Meyer Levin Gym:

Pix: An Annotated Pictorial History of Clark Air Base,  by David Rosmer

Pix of Meyer Levin: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meyer_Levin_(military)

Mitchell Highway:

Pix: Welcome to Clark Air Base, Guardian of Philippine Defense booklet

Pix of Gen. Billy Mitchell: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billy_Mitchell

Wagner High School:

Pix of Boyd Wagner: Photograph by Carl Mydans for TIME & LIFE Pictures),  (Colourised by Doug)

Pix: Wagner High School, 1971, collection of K. Morgan

Wurtsmith Elem. School:

Pix of Wurtsmith School: http://www.clarkab.org/history/

Pix of Gen Paul Wurtsmith: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paul_Wurtsmith

Lily Hill:

Pix: An Annotated Pictorial History of Clark Air Base,  by David Rosmer

Images: 
Pix; clarksubic.com

http://www.angelesmap.com/parade-ground.html