103. 10 ARTS AND CRAFTS OF PAMPANGA

In the late 19^th and early 20^th century, a design trend swept Europe and America called “Arts and Crafts”, a movement that promoted handcraftsmanship over industrial mass production. But long before that, Kapampangans have been creating all kinds of objects with their hands, with utilitarian and decorative functions, for their homes, work, leisure and religion.

**********

1. KURAN AT PASU (Sto. Tomas)

Utilitarian and decorative clay vessels and containers were among the earliest crafted objects made by man. All sorts of earthenware—including the ubiquitous  ‘kuran’ (round-bottom cooking pot)—have been produced in parts of Pampanga, as recorded by American Thomasite Luther Parker in the 1900s.  Sto. Tomas is the acknowledge pottery center of the province, with many major potters clustered along Quirino street. According to oldtimers, one pioneer potter was Apung Sindung Mercado who made “pilones”, clay jars used in the manufacture of molasses. From making traditional oya, tapayan, kuran, gusi, balanga and pilun , the potters also added ornamental pasu or masetas for growing garden plants and flowers,

2. PUKPUK (Betis, Apalit)

The fine art of metalsmithing was known to pre-Hispanic people in our archipelago, blossoming in the the late 16th to the 19th century, when the Spanish missionaries arrived to introduce the idea of sacred art in which the Chinese excelled. To decorate the altar, Mexican silver coin were melted and fashioned into tabernacles, altar frontals and vessels, ramilletes (silver floral standees), carrozas, and more. Betis artisans mastered the art, locally termed as ‘pukpuk’ (to hammer) as designs were created by chasing and using the repoussé method,  in which designs are raised on a metal sheet by pounding a pattern from the back using a sinsil (blunt chisel). This is achieved by working on the metal against a wooden block, on which designs have been incised. Artisans spread the art to Apalit which once had the largest number of ‘pukpuk’ shops. Names like the Ramirez Family, Edgardo Yutuc and Jeric Canlas continue this tradition to this day.   

3. DUKIT (Betis)

Betis is the town synonymous with quality carved woodcrafts (“dukit” -to carve) —from church and home furniture, decorative architectural pieces,  to religious statuaries and  relief sculptures.  One of its ancient barrios—Sta. Ursula—was known as the premiere source of such carved masterpieces.  A famous resident is Maestro Apung Juan Flores, who started as  a santo carver an expanded into “muebles” and carved wooden furnishings. He made the decorative wooden carvings of Malacanang Palace during the term of Marcos. Angeles, with its many Clark residents, was a major market of woodcarved products during the 50s thru the 80s. Modern-day mandudukit include the descendants of the Flores family, Willy Layug, Peter Garcia, Salvador Gatus, and the artisans of Betis Crafts of Myrna Bituin, who exports their prized furniture worldwide.

4. PARUL (San Fernando)

The lantern industry owes its popularity to San Fernando lantern maker pioneers who evolved the parul from the simple wooden and paper star lanterns for the “lubenas” (procession)  to the giant kaleidoscopic lanterns that the world marvels at, every December’s Giant Lantern Festival. The advent of electricity gave rise to the invention of the rotor by Rodolfo David; which is used to give the lanterns their amazing play of colors. Well-known parol makers include the Quiwas (led by Ernesto David Quiwa), Rolando Quiambao, Arnel Flores, and Jesus Maglalang. The Christmas capital of the Philippines  has parul stores all over the city still selling traditional lanterns. The Dau Expressway exit is line with lantern stores, hawking paruls of all sorts—capiz, LED-lit,  wire and plastic, and even “rope” lanterns.

5. BURARUL (Angeles)

Kite-making,  though not exactly an industry,  requires a certain degree of artistic and technical skill. Believe to have originated in China, these paper and wood air craft are flown mainly for leisure and play—but they were said to be used also for measuring distances and for military communications. In Pampanga, they are called “burarul”, from the Spanish “volador”,  one that flies. The basic “karang-karang” is nothing more than a folded paper with thread. But the more elaborate kites come in box (“tukong”) or diamond shapes (“sapin-sapin”). There are high-flyers (“gurion”) and competition fighter kites (“panyaklit”). The most complicated ones are figural kites mastered by the professional kite-maker Eulogio Catalan of Angeles City. A former sepulturero, Mang Eloy won renown for his imaginative, award-winning kite creations. He made kites in the forms of birds, fishes, angels, saints and figures  of our  national heroes—all using wooden framework,  paper and paint. His most elaborate was a ferris wheel kite with seated human figures, that actually turned when flown on a string. He also introduced the concept of folding kites. The art of kite making died with him, and today, just a handful in Pampanga know how to fashion homemade kites from “tingting” and papel de hapon.

6. DASE (Candaba, San Luis, San Simon)

As early as the 18^th century, dictioanarist Fray Diego Bergaño made mentioned of towns lining the Candaba Swamp that were known for weaving house mats or “dase”. Made from “ebus” (buri palm leaves) . These included weaving families from San Luis and San Simon who are skilled in the art of “pamaglala”, or weaving, usually done communally, after the day’s work. Mat weavers or”magdadase” wove fine mats of large, medium and small sizes—made for sleeping or for covering the bamboo floor. For variety, the leaves are dyed in different colors to produce mats with appealing patterns.

7. KUPIA (Apalit)

An allied product from the province’s weaving tradition are hats or “kupia”, an essential accessory for our tropical climate, where  wearing a head protection from the  scorching sun or sudden rains is mandatory.Before commercial hat shops were established in Pampanga, everday functional hats—"kupia"-- were made all over the province. Apalit was once a hat center, and in Barrio Sucad, ‘kupyang ebus’ by the thousands were woven and commercially sold in town markets from as far as Tarlac, Baguio, Bataan, Zambales and Manila. But due to the scarcity of ‘ebus’ materials, production  gradually slowed down in the 1920s. Pampanga shops that operated in the 1930s sold hats of all shapes, sizes and materials. In San Fernando, one could go to La Fernandina, Zapateria Moderna or to the Japanese bazaar of T. Tsuchibashi along Mercado St. and the Indian Bazaar of Battan Singh. "Sombreros del pais y del extranjero" (local and imported hats) could be bought in Macabebe at the Bazar L. Magat, while "El 96" in Angeles offered a few headwear selections.

8. SANTOS (Betis, Macabebe, Bacolor, Apalit)

Although Betis is the center of woodcarving  in Pampanga, it is Macabebe town which is known as the home of santeros. A santero is a craftsman who uses wood, ivory, cement or fiber glass to produce an ecclesiastical art piece known as santo, in the image of Christ, Mary or a Saint. Before the war, fishing and farming were the only means of livelihood of the people of Macabebe. Santo making was then merely an expression of their ingenuity, and the products were mostly for personal use. Pablo “Ambo” Bautista, a local businessman, is credited with promoting santo-making in the town by gathering local artists and putting them to work in a talyer he opened just for them. Sons Antonio (a painter) and Gener (a carver) further grew the business and improved the craft of santo making. This inspired other carvers to put up shops that soon proliferated along the whole stretch of the town’s main road. Others found their way in the other towns of Pampanga. U.P. Fine Arts graduate Maximiano Jingco also set up a pre-war religious statuary shop in Guagua. Second and third generation carvers continued the santo tradition like Rolando and Boyet Flores (from the Flores family of Sta.Ursula), while a new breed of highly trained carvers came to fore—Nick Lugue (Apalit).Wilfredo Layug  (Betis),  Joseph Magcalas (Apalit) ,  Joed Miclat (San Luis) and the Viray brothers (Bacolor).

9. GITARA (Guagua)

Cebu may have a reputation as the Philippines’ guitar industry leader, but the more well-known guitar brands are made in Guagua, Pampanga. The “gitara” has its origins in Spain, and there’s a mention of  a guitar-prototype in Byron Pabalan’s zarzuela “Ing Managpe”—a stringed instrument called “kalaskas”. Another is the pre-Hispanic “kudyapi”, which, like the guitar, has a box and a fretboard. The pioneer guitar maker in Pampanga is a Matuang Bacani who managed to copy an old Spanish guitar. He passed on his techniques to his son-in-law, Angel Lumanog who mastered the craft of guitar-making, opened a shop and started supplying Macabebe, Bacolor, and San Fernando stores. Son, his guitars were being sought after in Manila. Today, the Lumanog brand is a name synonymous to fine guitars. Apart from the Lumanogs, families like the Garcias, Dizons, Mallaris, Jucos and Manansalas engaged in the production guitars.

10. GAWANG PANDE (Apalit)

The first cannon maker of the country was a Kapampangan named Pande Pira, a smith who put up a foundery in Manila to make “lantakas” or cannons, and other artillery to protect the Intramuros and for use in Spanish galleons. Apalit takes pride in continuing this smithing tradition, and is the leading source of world-class steel crafts in the province,  such as bolo, machete, all types of knives and daggers, plus home and garden implements like rakes, hoes, spades, and other tools. The steel products are made the old fashioned way by hammering sheets of metal ,  made malleable by superheating them, then shaped into blades for bolos, palang, knives, scythes, spears or any bladed implement. The industry gave Apalit town its nickname, “The Blacksmith Capital of Pampanga”. In Floridablanca, smiths produced aluminum crafts, using “aluminyu” that are heated and pounded into shape, using molds.

SOURCE:

SINGSING MAGAZINE, "Pampanga's Folk Arts & Crafts: Going, Going, Gone?", Vol. 5, No. 1.Published by the Center for Kapampangan Studies,Holy Angel University. Excerpted and edited from the articles of JoelPabustan Mallari (Dase, Gitara, Kuran, Burarul, Kupia), Arwin Lingat (Santo), Alex R. Castro (Pukpuk), 

www.viewsfromthepamang.blogspot.com (Hold on to that Hat, Hamming on an Old Guitar, The Art of  the Kuran)
PHOTOS:
Alex R.Castro (Pande, Kupia, Gitara, Santos, Parul, Pande, Pukpok, )
Best, Jonathan. A Philippine Album: American Era Photographs 1900-1930, The Bookmark Inc.(Dase)
Miss Millenial Pampanga 2017 FB Page: (Betis Carving-Dukit)
Singsing Magazine: (Burarul)

78. 12 LONGTIME PAMPANGA BUSINESSES THAT ARE STILL IN EXISTENCE TODAY

Businesses come and go. But not for these Kapampangan enterprises founded by visionaries who poured in blood, sweat and tears to build these commercial establishments that have--with a dash of luck--become icons of economic success in the province's business landscape. Let's see some of these businesses that are still in existence and continue to endure to this very day.

**********

APUNG DIUNG BAKERY (1880)

The oldest-known bakery in Pampanga-- “Apung Diung”-- is still in existence in Plaza Burgos, Guagua, after over 120 years of operation. Founded by Aurelio Diyco , the panaderia still uses oldtime recipes and traditional baking methods to come up with special pastries and treats. Apung Diung is credited with popularizing ‘masa podrida” (Nancy Balls brand), the local  version of shortbread biscuits , perfect with coffee or tea. The circular cookie literally means “rotten dough”, but the taste is anything but that. Rich-tasting with a crisp, crumbly texture, masa podrida cookies are made from butter, flour and sugar. Known today as “Apung Diung Pan Plaza Bakery”, the business is now owned and operated by Diyco descendants, and continues to bring to treats like cheese rolls, sampaguitas, egg pies, pan de salitos and other breads to sweet-toothed Kapampangans.

LA MODERNA BAKERY (late 1800s)

La Moderna had its roots  in the late 1800’s when couple Ignacio and Maria Lansang Narciso opend a sweets shop in Sta. Rita. In 1947, son Pablo Narciso and his wife Narcisa Carlos relocated the candy company to  Guagua, which soon evolved into a bakery, La Moderna.   Its wood-fired ovens or pugon  churned out baked treats that were sold  as far north as Dagupan, and in Divisoria, Manila. All 10 Narciso kids all helped in managing La Moderna, which employed over 150 employees working in shifts daily, to meet the growing demands. The second and third children, Toto Narciso and Butchie N. Lagman took over La Moderna  in the early 80’s, and the bakery came to be known for both its traditional and new product innovations: gorgoryas, mamon tostado, sampaguitas, masa podrida and turrones. Not even the eruption of Pinatubo could bring the business down as La Moderna found a loyal Manila market via the Salcedo weekend market. After over 70 years,  La Moderna Bakery continues to operate in Guagua today, right in Plaza Burgos, proof that once a favorite, always a favorite!

R.T. PARAS HAUTE COUTURE (1902)

R. T. Paras Haute Couture is perhaps the most notable fashion house established by a Kapampangan--Roberta Tablante Paras, a woman of extraordinary talent and character. Roberta was one of the daughters of Modesto Paras, a former juez de paz (justice of the peace) of Angeles. Her dressmaking skills were recognized early. But a liaison with a married doctor caused her to be disowned; she fled to Manila and open a small dressmaking shop in Binondo in 1902 and in Quiapo in 1912. She single-handedly operated her  business, building a client list that would include the First Lady Aurora Aragon Quezon. Roberta’s daughter, Josefina, acquired her mother’s skills and business acumen, and turned R. T. Paras as one of the country’s most popular couture shops in the 40s and 50s. Her son, former design head of Jean Patou,  Froilan “Roy” Gonzales would eventually return home to head R.T.Paras Haute Couture which has become a name synonymous with excellence in the domain of high quality wedding gowns, corporate attire, suits and formal wear.

PAMPANGA HOTEL & PANCITERIA (after 1912)

Along A. Consunji Street, on the side of the San Fernando Cathedral still stands the Pampanga Hotel and Panciteria, now operating under the name Pampanga Lodge and Restaurant. The famed hotel cum restaurant was put up in  the spacious Buison Building, which in 1908, started housing Pampanga High School. The building then came into the possession of the Eusebio family, and became the residence of Andres Eusebio, who married Asuncion Santos, daughter of Don Teodoro Santos, Sr. (Dorong Tola). The school vacated the premises when the new Pampanga High School was erected in 1912. Harvardian Colleges, founded in 1955, also used the building for its classes. Pampanga Hotel and Panciteria took over its use, providing affordable lodgings and meals to San Fernando visitors  through the 50s- 60s. The establishment still operates in the same town plaza location.

ANGELES ELECTRIC CORPORATION, (1923)

Angeles City’s main power provider, the Angeles Electric Corp., began as Angeles Electric Light and Power Plant on July 10, 1923, a project of Don Juan Nepomuceno and wife, Nena Gomez. The couple—who already had an ice plant, and would go on to found other ventures like Holy Angel Academy, a softdrinks factory, a subdivicion and a commercial shopping complex---thought that bringing  power to a community, including light to the church—was a great idea. With a 2,000 pesos down payment on a Php 72,000 power plant machines—the Nepomucenos set forth to establish the electric company that would serve Angeles continuously, except during the dark days of the war. It was incorporated in 1959 as Angeles Electric Corp. and the institution continues to provide power service, efficiently and competently-- not only to the city but also to nearby areas, today.

FUNERARIA PUNZALAN, (1930)

One of Pampanga’s leading funeral services was founded way back in 1930 by Pedro Manalili Punzalan who first started Funeraria Punzalan in Arayat town. In the eary 1950s, he bought an old house in San Fernando along Tiomico St., and converted it into another funeral parlor that soon gained patronage in the capital and in nearby towns. In 1959, Funeraria Punzalan opened its Guagua branch, and soon, Punzalan descendants rode on the popularity of the successful memorial and mortuary business by putting up their own branches bearing the same name.  At its peak, Funeraria Punzalan had branches in Candaba, Calumpit and in Nueva Ecija (Jaen and Cabiao). Another Punzalan relative put up parlors in Bataan (Orani, Hermosa, Dinalupihan, Balanga, Limay, Samal, Abucay) which are still currently in operation, along with the San Fernando, Arayat and Porac branches.

ONG SIN SIU GROCERY (1939)

Ong Sin Siu or simply “Sencio” is the name of the oldest supermarket in Mabalacat. It was founded in 1939 by Chinese couple Ong Sin Siu and wife Apung Achi Ong. The small grocery store was put up along MacArthur Highway, Calumpang, and sold everything from canned goods, softdrinks, cosmetics, toys, school supplies, hardware and other day-to-day essentials. Apung Sencio, who was known for being generous to his patrons (he lent money freely), ran the grocery along with his children.  Through the years, the grocery expanded and continues to enjoy a loyal following from the city, this, despite the rise of hypermarts and similar superstores in the area.

HIZON’S BAKESHOP (1946)

Hizon’s Cakes & Pastries on Bocobo St. in Ermita, Manila was founded by Inocencia Hizon, a widowed single mother working as a department store clerk at Aguinaldo’s, Escolta. The Hizon roots are in Mexico. Family lore has it that the now-famous ensaymada recipe was given to her by an anonymous woman. Inocencia baked dozens of ensaymadas using the recipe, and engaged the help of her sister to peddle the pastries in offices, which, to her surprise, were all sold-out. This encouraged her to put up a bakeshop in 1946 on Raon St, which she named simply as “Hizon’s”. It transferred to its present location in Bocobo in 1963. Today, Hizon’s has branches in Pasay, Greenhills and Makati, run by daughter Milagros Ramos Roasa. The shop, regarded as an institution, (it was the late Dolphy's favorite hang-out place),  is also famous for its taisans, apple pies and ube cakes, but the ensaymada remains a sentimental favorite.

APUNG GARI BAKERY & KIOSK, (1955)

San Fernando’s favorite bakeshop at the Assumpta Building, along the busy Abad Santos St., barrio St. Rosario, was put up by an enterprising couple, Jesusa “Susing” Quiambao and husband Jose “Pitong” Valencia, in 1955. It was named after Susing’s mother, Margarita Quiambao.  As a manager of the post-war “La Satisfacion Bakery, “Apung Gari” earned a reputation as a good cook. Her daughter and son-in-law soon took over the business, renaming it as “Apung Gari Bakery and Kiosk”. For fifty centavos, one can enjoy Pancit Luglug (a best-seller), Arroz Caldo, Chicken Mami, Magnolia Ice Cream and Ice Cream Sundae. Halo-halo, Lumpiang Prito, Magnolia Milk. Assorted cakes and pies could be had for forty centavos. Students from Assumption and other schools, government employees frequented “Apung Gari” for over six decades. Descendants continued the business long after the death of the Valencias, until it was sold to the Santiago family around 2007.  The new owners retained the name owing to its pulling power which evokes simple, but tasty food and good times. Recently, the name was changed to LBS (for Leonila B. Santiago) Bakeshop and Kiosk, and time will tell if the same affinity for the one and only “Apung Gari” will rub off on the newly-rechristened bakeshop.

JOHNNY’S GROCERY STORE, (early 1950s)

The founder of Angeles’ early grocery/supermarket  was Amoy-born Johnny Uy whose family migrated to the Philippines and settled in Pampanga. He married Lilia So, who belongs to the well-known clan of Angeles. After their marriage, they put up a mall shop, Johnny’s Grocery Store along Miranda St, which would become the go-to place of Angeles families for their daily, domestic needs, including liquors. The Uys would put up a multi-storey building in Balibago in the early 1970s, which also proved to be very successful, carrying imported goods from American comic books, cigarettes, premiere liquor brands to the latest music records. The Miranda branch was lost in a blaze, but Johnny’s Supermarket in Balibago and at Sto. Rosario Street—housed in a newly-refurbished building, are still going strong. In 2014, “Papa Johnny”as known  by locals, was recognized by the province for his significant contributions to the community and its economy.

MAKABALI CLINIC (1957)

The modern V.L. Makabali Memorial Hospital, Inc along Mendoza St., in San Fernando, began as a modest 6-bedroom maternity clinic that Dr. Venancia L. Makabali opened in a house, on Aug. 11, 1957. Dra. Makabali was a 1946 graduate of medicine at the University of Santo Tomas, where she specialized in Obstetrics and Gynecology. She later went to the U.S. to undergo advanced OB-GYNE training. Her reputation as a women’s health doctor soon spread and the single doctor’s career took off. Just a few months after the clinic opened, she added 4 more beds, one operating room, one delivery room, ten nursery bassinets, a laboratory, and an X-ray room. For years, Dra. Makabali ran her famed clinic, which continued to operate long after her death in 1972. The clinic was then made into a family corporation with all the surviving brothers and sisters as incorporators. This led to the construction of a modern hospital complex now known as  V.L. Makabali Memorial Hospital, Inc.

RURAL BANK OF MABALACAT (1964)

The little bank that could—that’s the Rural Bank of Mabalacat Inc, which after half a century, still operates in the city, an important partner in community progress. The rural bank, established by founding members Concepcion de Leon, Jaime Gomez, Lourdes Dycaico, Benedicto Tiglao  and Angelo Hizon opened  its doors in the Poblacion office on November 4, 1964 . An extension office was put up in Dau on December 8, 1972. However, lahar threats in 1991-1992 from Mount Pinatubo’s eruption prompted the bank to transfer its main office from Mabalacat to Dau, but this did not hamper the bank from expanding its network, opening branches in Magalang (1993), Sindalan, San Fernando (November 1997),  Bamban,Tarlac (November 2002) and another full service branch in Angeles City in 2009. The Rural Bank of Mabalacat Inc, has withstood many challenges like the Asian Economic Crisis, the political upheavals that affected our econmy and financial system in the 1980s, and enjoys continued grwth and stability today.

SOURCES: 

ANGELES ELECTRIC CORP.:  Center for Kapampangan Studies, Holy Angel University

APUNG DIUNG: Photos, from Mr. Jorge Hizon FB page, https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=APUNG%20DIUNG%2C%20HIZON

LA MODERNA BAKERY:  Photos and info from La Modern bakery blog:  http://lamoderna1947.blogspot.com/

PAMPANGA HOTEL: 1960 yearbook, Pampanga High School

New photo: Dadi Yrec FB page: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1120256434678703&set=gm.1222390991151478&type=3&theater

FUNERARIA PUZALAN, all photos by Jerry Punzalan Sagmit

ONG SIN SIU: Photo from “Ing Mabalaqueño 2017 Year End issue.

HIZON’S BAKESHOP: Photo of Hizon’s Raon branch, Philippine History & Architecture FB page,

APUNG GARI: Alex Castro Collection

JOHNNY’S GROCERY STORE: Vintage Photo by J. Scott,

Photo of Johnny’s Supermaket-Balibago: https://www.facebook.com/JohnnysSupermarket/

MAKABALI CLINIC: 1959 Pampanga Medical Society Souvenir Program

V. L. Makabali Memorial Hospital FB page

RURAL BANK OF MABT.: http://rbmabalacat.com/about-us/

56. 15 OLD-TIME CIGARETTE WRAPPERS FROM PAMPANGA

LA PAMPANGUENA. CALIXTO SURLA y COMPANIA. Angeles, Pampanga

Cigar and cigarette manufacturing in our islands officially began in 1782, under the tobacco monopoly introduced by Gov. Jose Basco y Vargas. Under the system, the government had complete control of tobacco cultivation  and only only select provinces like Bulacan, Nueva Ecija and Pampanga and Ilocos provinces were authorized to grow the plant. Turn-of-the-century cigarrillos were often packaged in batches of 24s-30s, in wrappers with detailed graphics such as these examples from Pampanga. Local backyard entrepreneurs bought processed cigar leaves from growers in the North and engaged  workers to roll and wrap cigarettes in attractive packages in color, carrying assorted visual themes, often irrelevant to the product, ranging from the patriotic to the mythical and romantic.

 LA ASAMBLEA FILIPINA. (The Philippine Assembly), Betis, Pampanga

 LA FUERZA (The Force), Sto. Nino, Guagua, Pampanga

 DOS AMIGOS, FABRICA DE CIGARILLOS FELICIANO DAVID. Betis, Pampanga

 LA REINA FILIPINA, (Philippine Queen, Purita Villanueva), Betis, Pampanga

 BANDA NANG ANGELES/BETIS. The band from Angeles won first place in the

1909 Manila Carnival Band Contest. Angeles, Pampanga

 DING MUNAG NING ASLAGAN. JOAQUINA, INES, Y ROSARIO BASA.

Angeles, Pampanga

 PLAZA DE BETIS. FABRICA DE TABACOS Y CIGARILLOS, P. CAREON

 EL COSECHERO DE SINUCUAN. (The Harvester of Sinukuan)

PASCUALA FLORES. Arayat, Pampanga

 LA NEGRITA, EUSEBIA BASCO, Angeles, Pampanga

 ATES, FABRICA DE TABACOS, NEMECIO LEONARDO. Betis, Pampanga

 LAS DOS HERMANAS. Bacolor, Pampanga

 VIVA SAN MIGUEL. Sto. Cristo, Guagua, Pampanga

SOCIEDAD BETISENA, SIMON ROQUE. Betis, Pampanga

SINUKUAN. Plaza Sto. Tomas, Pampanga

 KALAYAAN. Plaza Sto. Tomas, Pampanga

PUSA. FABRICA DE CIGARILLOS DE MARIA MARIANO. Betis, Pampanga

SOURCES:

ALL CIGARETTE WRAPPERS, Alex R. Castro Collection

"patriotism in a Puff", www.viewsfromthepampang.blogspot.com

48. 14 NATIONALLY-FAMOUS KAPAMPANGAN FOOD BUSINESSES

ALING LUCING “The Sisig Queen”

The woman who, in 1974,  gave her name to her modest Angeles restaurant and catapulted “sisig” to national prominence was born Lucia “Lucing” Lagman in Tarlac. A good cook, Lucing experimented with innovating “sisig”, a favorite Kapampangan dish made from chopped parts of a pig’s ears, liver, chopped onions, calamansi, vinegar and spices and served on a sizzling platter. Her Aling Lucing’s Sisig earned a multitude of patrons from even outside the city, that soon attracted national media attention. Dubbed as the “Sisig Queen”, Aling Lucing’s food business helped establish Angeles as the “Sisig Capital of the Philippines”. Her business had not even reached its maximum potential when Aling Lucing was found bludgeoned to death on 16 April 2008. Husband Victorino Cunanan, reputed to be a gambler, was tagged as a suspect. At present, there are Aling Lucing’s Sisig restaurants run by relatives in Pampanga, plus branches in Makati, Pasig and Aklan—all serving different sisig versions. From an appetizer, the Kapampangan sisig had graduated to being staple feature for many landmark occasions.

CABALEN Restaurant

Back in the 1970s,  Maritel O. Nievera used to help run the family food business called “Bahay Pasalubong” in San Matias, Santo Tomas, Pampanga. It achieved a measure of success , so she and her sister Beth, were encouraged to open a small kiosk at SM City North EDSA  in 1986 selling various Kapampangan delicacies. Five years later, the Pinatubo eruption occurred. Holding fast to her faith in the future of her embattled province, she initiated a drive to make San Fernando a showcase of successful recovery  by putting up “Ituro Mo, Iluto Mo”, a restaurant  that promises every guest a classy Kapampangan dining experience. It proved to be a hit. She then went further by establishing Cabalen, the first Kapampangan specialty restaurant chain in Manila, captivating discriminating food lovers with authentic native cooking and signature dishes from the province. Through her fine restaurants, Nievera continues to promote widescale interest for Pampanga’s culinary arts, while showcasing the Kapampangan woman in her best light. Today, the “Queen of Filipino Buffet” , with her Cabalen Group, is on its 30^th year of bringing the best of Pampanga’s cuisine to the Philippines.

EVERYBODY’S CAFÉ

Everybody’s Café and its ubiquitous diner-inspired sign has become a San Fernando landmark, and a favorite stop for many travelers passing by the city along MacArthur Highway. The idea to open a roadside café was conceived by couple Benito M. Santos and Carmen Nogoy during the 40s. A friend suggested a neutral name that’s neither pro-American nor pro-Japanese--”Everybody’s Café”. The Santoses started with 10 tables in a a space along the newly opened Consunji St. with a menu that included merienda items like pancit luglug and 30 centavo mami soup. By the 1950s, it gained a reputation as a favorite eating place of Diosdado Macapagal before going to his miting de avance. In 1967, a second Everybody’s Café building was put up and through the years, the list of customers expanded—from Pampanga High and Assumption students to Dña. Aurora Aquino, Pres. Cory Aquino and her children, Pres. Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo an showbiz celebrities. Everybody’s Café is known for introducing to a nation such special Kapampangan treats as “adobung kamaru” (mole crickets) a perennial bestseller of the house, betute (stuffed frogs), taba ng talangka, paku salad, morcon (Kris Aquino’s favorite), lumpiang papaya, tsokolateng binatirul and leche flan made of gatas damulag (carabao’s milk). Currently, Everybody's Cafe is operated by the Santos daughter, Mrs. Petronila Jorolan with the help of children Pocholo, Pamela, Kristine and Ma. Carmina. It has been true to its name through its long years of existence—it is indeed, a place for everybody!

HIZON’S CAKES AND PASTRIES

 Hizon’s Cakes & Pastries on Bocobo Street in Ermita, Manila was founded by Inocencia Hizon, a widowed single mother who worked as a department store clerk at Aguinaldo’s, Escolta. The Hizons have roots in Mexico. Family lore has it that the now-famous ensaymada recipe was given to her by an anonymous woman. Inocencia baked dozens of ensaymadas using the recipe, and engaged the help of her sister to peddle the pastries in offices, which, to her surprise, were all sold-out. This encouraged her to put up a bakeshop which she named simply as “Hizon’s”, on Raon St. Today, Hizon’s has branches in Pasay, Greenhills and Makati, run by daughter Milagros Ramos Roasa. The shop, regarded as an institution, (it was the late Dolphy's favorite hang-out place),  is also famous for its taisans, apple pies and ube cakes, but the ensaymada remains a sentimental favorite.

HIZON CATERING

The country’s leading off-premise caterer specializing in weddings, private parties and corporate events was started in 1987 by Baby Hizon, a Kapampangan from Concepcion, Tarlac. She parlayed her interest in culinary arts into an successful enterprise that began as a backyard business –catering to relatives and friends.  She was soon being sought after to cater birthdays, weddings, debuts and other special occasions.  After three decades, Baby’s , Hizon’s Catering has served over 14,543 weddings, 5,673 corporate clients, and 3,653 private events with its nearly three decades of experience. With son Joseph as current general manager, and assisted by eldest son, David, an American-trained chef, Hizon’s Catering has grown into a modern operations housed in a fully equipped 2,500-square meter commissary in Quezon City. Plans for the future include growing the business by about 15-20 percent a year, tapping the corporate and children’s events segment,  while maintaining its hold on the wedding catering market.

LJC RESTAURANTS

Larry J. Cruz, the son of renaissance man, writer and artist Emilio Aguilar Cruz of Magalang, is the founder of LJC Chain of Restaurants, beginning with Café Adriatico—a small café in Malate, that was put up in 1979. Cruz, a journalist, virtually had no experience in running restaurants, but his little café made waves—what with its good food, efficient service and a vintage ambiance that appealed to artists, celebrities, politicos, celebrities and people from the corporate world. Café Adriatico inspired the openings of cafes around the country. Today, despite Larry’s passing in 2008, the LJC Restaurants have expanded to include the management and operations of food outlets  like Abe, Abe Farm, Fely J’s Kitchen, Lorenzo’s Way, Café Havana, Larry’s Café and Bar and Polka Dot Bakeshop.

MANGAN

Cabalen paved the way for the establishments of other Kapampangan restaurants. San Fernando born and bred Ricco Ocampo, owner of several  lifestyle stores (“Sari-Sari”), diversified into the food business and opened “Mangan”, an authentic Kapampangan culture restaurant , to complement his earlier  “Kitchen”, both in Manila malls. Every dish should only be cooked upon order,” says Ocampo, “Cooking everything in the morning and reheating them during lunch and dinner betrays the essence of real Kapampangan cooking. Mangan, an all-day, casual restaurant, also serves merienda items such as puto bumbong, bibingka and halo-halo, Guagua style, with lots of leche flan, sweet bananas and macapuno. Complementing his Mangan Restaurant is Ebun, Kusinang Pinoy, at Greenbelt in Makati.

MEKENI FOOD CORP.

What started as a home-based chicharon and tocino business for couple Felix M. Garcia and Medica L. Santos is now—after 3 decades—a highly successful, giant processed meat enterprise called Mekeni Food Corporation. At the start, the promising meat business gave the Garcia couple supplemental income to send their five boys to school. Luckily, the boys found various employments abroad after college. But when the 1991 Pinatubo eruption wrought damage to their business, the Garcia sons came home to help their parents rebuild the business.  With the help of 30 employees, Mekeni was fully restored with greater success. Not only did the company bounced back from the calamity, but it also gave employment opportunities to a community of people who lost much in the aftermath of the eruption. Its flagship brands include the Mekeni line of cured tocino, tapa and longganisa produced in its world-class plant in Balubad, Porac. It also produces the popular Picnic premium brand of hotdogs and a host of other treats like Spicy Pork Barbecue, Corned Beef, Nuggets, Beef Teriyaki,  Kikiam and Squid Balls. Recently, Mekeni Food Corp. celebrated  “30 Years of Uplifting Filipino Lives”.

PAMPANGA’S BEST

Pampanga’s Best is the most well-known meat processing corporation that has been giving the Philippines and the world a taste of our renowned tocino, longganisa, tapa, bacon, hotdogs, embotido, barbecue, burger patties, nuggets, and more, for over 4 decades now. It was founded by Mrs. Lolita O. Hizon of San Fernando, who helped her neighbor—a meat dealer-- in preserving her leftover meats.  Mrs. Hizon cured the meat by improving and refining on the traditional process of fermenting Kapampangan “pindang” that is endowed with a delectable salty-sweet taste. The result is her famous  “tocino” products that would form the core of ber Pampanga’s Best business, now a multi-million peso venture personally run by her family, including her 12 children. “Always the best—from Pampanga’s Best”, so goes the company motto, a promise that the Hizons vowed to keep in response to the loyal patronage their meat brands enjoy to this day.

RAZON’S

The famous Razon's chain of halo-halo shops began as a small "refreshment parlor" at the Razon home in a Guagua subdivision. It was put up in 1972 by the Razon siblings: Virginia, Severina, Elena and Roger, and catered mostly to residents and local students. But the merienda items—particularly the pancit and the delectably smooth Razon’s halo-halo soon became the talk-of-the-town. Tourists began flocking to the Razon’s Guagua home, moreso when foodie writer Doreen Fernandez discovered it and wrote about “the best halo-halo in the world”. Surprisingly, Razon’s halo-halo only had 3 ingredients—sweet macapuno, sagin na saba, and leche flan. With the death of the siblings, the business flourished,  through several incarnations of the Razon’s refreshment shop ran by relatives.  One niece, Luz Razon-Cabrera operates 3 Razon’s stores. Her sister-in-law in San Fernando owns Teresita’s, which, according to the proprietor, makes halo-halo from the only original recipe approved by Virginia Razon. The first Razon’s of Guagua, owned by Razon Food Corp., opened on 8 July 2003 at the Food Court of Robinson’s Galleria. This chain has over 66 branches in Manila, as of 15 April 2016.

RED RIBBON BAKE SHOP

Amalia Hizon of Mexico, together with husband Renato Mercado, put up a little cake shop called Red Ribbon that drew praises for its cakes and pastries. They set up their first shop in 1978 along Timog Ave. in Quezon City. In a matter of years, the cake shop gained a substantial following, and in 1984, it opened a U.S. outlet.  The bakeshop was popular for its chocolate cake, blueberry cheesecake, black forest cake, ensaymada, empanada and mamon. It was no wonder then that Jollibee Food Corp. acquired the business in 2005. One of the fastest-growing bakeshop chain in the country, Red Ribbon has over 370 outlets all over the Philippines and some 33 stores in US with locations in California, Nevada, Washington, Hawaii, New York, New Jersey and Virginia.

 SUSIE’S CUISINE

Susie’s Cuisine has become a household name in Pampanga, a favorite go-to place for the most delicious Filipino kakanins or native delicacies like bibingkang nasi (rice cake), tibuk-tibuk (maja blanca), kalame, aleyang ube, sapin-sapin and moche. Began in the 1970s as a carinderia by Mrs. Anicia Ayson, she named her stall after her adopted daughter  Jesusa “Susie Ayson-Yabut, an Amerasian abandoned by her father. In time, Mrs. Ayson started adding native kakanins and pasalubong items to her offering, due to consumer demand. Her bestseller turned out to be her “tibuk-tibuk”, a creamy, delicate pudding made from pure carabao’s milk. Eventually, Susie Ayson-Yabut took over the business, which suffered a setback when Pinatubo erupted in 1991. Yabut and husband Glenn moved to Manila, and after earning enough capital, they returned to Angeles to re-open Susie’s Cuisine, with an expanded menu, and additional local treats like saniculas, araro, polvoron, turrones de casuy, brownies, okoy and bobotu. To date, there are about 15 Susie’s Cuisine branches in Central Luzon, raking in up to P5 million during its peak months.

LAPID’S CHICHARON & BARBECUE

D’Original R. Lapid’s Chicharon & Barbecue is rputed to be the largest producer of chicharon in the country today. It was started way back in 1974 as a “kainan” (eatery) by Rey Lapid, then age 23, a transplanted Kapampangan, whose father Frederico Sr. owned a meat stall in Quinta Market. He observed that his father’s customers would ask that the skin be removed; his dad would just often discard the skin away.Thus, Lapid collected the skin and ventured into chicharon-making. He perfected a recipe and began selling his chicharon in a Quiapo stall. Slowly, but surely, Lapid’s business grew, especially when he introduced cooking chicharon in front of customers in giant malls like SM, Robinson’s and Landmark. It is also the first chicharon manufacturer to use imported pork skin raw materials from U.S.A., Europe, Canada, and Korea. Indeed, chicharon has become synonymous to Lapid's, and this cracklin' delicious snack is enjoyed all over the country, thanks to the over 100 branches of R. Lapid's Chicharon and Barbecue in operations today!

CINDY’S BAKESHOP & RESTAURANT

Cindys—the place to be—was founded in 1971 by a group of businessmen in Tarlac who simply envisioned a restaurant that served “good food in a good place”. Thus was born the first Cindys store in Tarlac, that served a standard fare of baked breads, and merienda favorites. The successful reception to the store prompted  them to open more branches and to offer new menu items like burgers, French fries and express meals. But it was the bakeshop that gave Cindys a competitive edge. At its peak, Cindys was promoted through national advertising, a no mean feat for a homegrown business. To focus on its uniqueness,  Cindys re-conceptualized its product in 1996, by opening a store that was first a bakery, and secondarily a restaurant. This gave it an edge above the rising number of fast food joints. Today, Cindys has over forty stores nationwide.

SOURCES:

ALING LUCING, RP's sisig queen found dead in Pampanga home : http://www.gmanetwork.com/news/news/regions/89628/rp-s-sisig-queen-found-dead-in-pampanga-home/story/

CABALEN: http://www.cabalen.ph/

EVERYBODY’S CAFÉ: Kasalesayan ning San Fernando

HIZON’S: “Piece of Cake: Kapampangans’ Sweet Tooth”, http://viewsfromthepampang.blogspot.com/2015/04/381-piece-of-cake-kapampangans-sweet.html

HIZON’S CATERING: http://hizonscatering.com/

LJC GROUP OF RESTAURANTS: http://ljcrestaurants.com.ph/ljc/about/

SUSIE’S CUISINE, Meet Pampanga's 'kakanin queen' : http://news.abs-cbn.com/business/06/07/14/meet-pampangas-kakanin-queen

MANGAN: “Mangan is authentic ‘mekeni’ dining”.By Alex Y. Vergara

Inquirer News Service

MEKENI FOOD CORP.: http://www.mekeni.com/

PAMPANGA’S BEST: https://www.pampangasbest.com/

RAZON’S: http://razonsfoodcorp.com.ph/about

“Your favorite halo-halo Places”, http://www.gmanetwork.com/news/lifestyle/food/486830/your-favorite-halo-halo-places-luz-the-original-razon-s-halo-halo/story/

LAPID’S: http://www.philstar.com/business/2012-09-13/848300/rey-hope

http://www.rlapids.com.ph/about-us/company-history/

CINDY’S: http://www.cindysbakery.com/about-cindys/history.html